Yesterday my cousin, Carina, and I decided to make the 2 hour journey to the nearest former concentration camp, despite the nagging uncertainties and unpleasant expectations of exactly what we would find. And feel. As strangely morbid as this may sound, I have always wanted to visit one of these sites. I've heard of the horrors all my life. I've learned about it in history classes, read accounts in books, even seen vivid depictions in films, as you most likely have as well. But I wanted to physcially stand on the (proverbially and literally) blood-stained ground and let the emotions, that are certain to rise up with this intense connection of past and present, overwhelm me. In some sense, I think, I wanted to pay my respects. Perhaps even apologize for what (some of) "my people" did. I don't know if that makes sense. Or if it is even right of me to presume to apologize. Perhaps it's a politically incorrect gesture. Or perhaps it doesn't mean anything to anyone because the atrocities that took place can never be undone or absolved. Perhaps it didn't mean anything to anyone. Except me.
It was a huge compound. First we walked over the train tracks that brought thousands upon thousands of prisoners to Buchenwald. Gypsies, people of colour, Jews, the handicapped, cripples, spies and traitors that had been caught by the Gestapo. Valuable human lives carted around the countryside to a death camp, tortured by men and women who somewhere along the way lost their hearts ... and, as far as I'm concerned, mental sanity. I stood on the cobblestone train platform where countless groups of shivering, terrified, hopeless men, women, and children cringed under barked commands and the butts of rifles as the falling snow piled around their bare feet. I almost heard the now nearly 70 year old cries and whimperings.
We moved on. Past the old headquarters buildings and Nazi garages. Through a large gatehouse with the iron rods spelling
which means 'to each his own'. Most concentration camps had some sort of absurd, ominous phrase, or slogan, above the gates of the compound. (One of the most famous is "Arbeit macht frei"...which means 'work will set you free'.)
How can I describe what went through my mind as I looked out across the grounds that spelled certain death for so many innocent people? The prisoner baracks, which were originally meant to house 90 horses and instead contained up to 2000 prisoners at a time, are no longer standing in Buchenwald. You can just see the outlines of where the walls used to stand as the bottom layer of bricks are still stuck in the ground. These outlines are filled with black rocks, to help visitors try to envison and understand the vastness of this camp. I saw the area where the young people and children were kept. Children! Can you believe it? I mean, you know it. In your head. Most of us have seen "Schindler's List" and the like. But does it get past our brain cells? Into our understanding? Is that even possible?
As we walked through this area it began to rain hard. Talk about pathetic fallacy. I huddled under my black umbrella and couldn't help thinking about the fact that the prisoners never had such luxuries. I was thankful for the rain. For the blowing wind. For the desolate skies. I think a sunny day would have somehow felt ... inappropriate. Disrespectful, if you will. I stood where the former "das kleine Lager" used to stand. That is where the worst atrocities took place. Where the most painful and indescribable torture took place. And I wondered what it takes for someone to lose their soul; to be capable of inflicting such unspeakable acts, repeatedly; to listen to the screaming and then find the strength be the cause of it ... again and again.
Carina and I then moved into one of the only buildings left standing which is now a museum filled with information and historical artifacts and documents that could keep its visitors occupied for days. I think it was the physical objects in this museum that struck me the most. I saw a former prisoner's clothes. His number stitched onto the chest. Did anyone ever use his name again? Or was he #26,532 for the rest of his life?
I saw the needles that contained the lethal injections for those too sick or crippled to be of any further use in the stone quarry where the prisoners worked 12 hours a day, sometimes forced to sleep in the salt pits for up to 8 nights in a row.
I saw and read the original document declaring the appr. 75 ha. near Weimar, Thueringen as intended for the next concentration camp in Germany. The signature at the bottom symbolizing all the terror that was to follow. A signature sentencing death to people he would never even meet ... or waste a second thought on. The word "Geheim" ('top secret') stamped across the top.
I saw pictures of walking skeletons. Old. Young.
I heard the account of a young man who said the only word that went through his mind, 24 hours a day, was 'bread'.
I saw the book that listed all the experimental operations that were carried out in Buchenwald. The prisoner's number, the type of operation, the exact procedure, the outcome. The resulting falsified death certificates.
I read the quotes of US soldiers who recounted their thoughts from the day that they walked into the camp and never quite recovered from what they saw.
One of the prisoners who was freed in April, 1945 said that when the soldiers entered the compound they simply stared. That's what he remembers about the US soldiers. How they simply stared. Because the reality of it was simply too much for the human mind to truly grasp. Just remembering that quote brings tears to my eyes as I write this. That's right ... the girl that never ever cries.
We never made it to the building that contains the giant ovens where the corpses were cremated before the camp closed for the day. (What an ironic sentence, isn't it?) But I'm partly thankful, or perhaps relieved is a better word, I didn't have to stand in their presence.
Am I glad I did it? Undoubtedly. I would do it again. And again. To keep reminding myself that this HAPPENED. It's so easy to think of history as a story. An endless legend. It's hard to grasp its reality. Its validity. Its importance. Yes, it is in the past. And there were hundreds, thousands, tens of thousands of Germans who fought against it every step of the way. And I am proud of them. I am still proud to be a German. Many Germans this year have asked me how long I think we will have to pay for what happened in WWII. Do you know how many German flags I have seen waving in the wind here since I've arrived? Two. Go for a drive in the States and try to count the flags in ONE TOWN on one hand and I can almost guarantee you'll need to whip out that second hand. And possibly several, if not all, toes. Because they have nothing to be ashamed about, right?
Meanwhile Germans are still afraid to be proud. Proud to be German.
I will remember what happened. I will feel deep sadness for what took place in this (and surrounding) country(s). But I will also remember the courage of people like Stauffenberg and Bonhoeffer. I will be proud of them. And I will remember what many Germans went through during this time and the horrible years between WWI and WWII with the Treaty of Versailles (which I still consider to be largely responsible for the rise of Hitler and his Nazis). And I will continue to hold my German-Canadian head high. For I believe that a nation with the guts and courage to get back up, admit its mistakes with humility and true remorse, and rebuild itself into one of the world's leading powers is half the battle. The rest of the battle is up to us. Where will the next generation, my generation, your generation, take us?
For further photos of my weekend with Carina, including pics of the school where I work, as well as the concentration camp, please follow this link: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=108398&id=573967603&l=0e4e9

